Webitorial In partnership with lineapelle UK

Exploring sustainability issues in the leather fashion world

To ensure lively and meaningful discussion for our webitorial, we have assembled an illustrious group of leading industry specialists with a range of expertise in leather production and sustainability. Together, they will explore some of the fashion world's most pressing problems.

Topics of conversation will include the importance of maintaining the highest standards of quality as the industry strives to ensure that all sustainable leathers offer the same quality and performance as virgin material.

  • Board of Experts:
  • Ilaria Volontè
    Designer and materials expert
  • Federico Brugnoli
    Sustainable leather expert and CEO of Spin360
  • Christian Layolle
    Leather consultant and connoisseur of sustainable startups
  • Mike Redshaw
    Senior Technical Manager, Intertek Europe
  • Fabiana Orlandi
    Lineapelle and UNIC's Sustainability and Environmental Department expert
  • Conclusion:
    Daniele Del Grande
    Footwear Manager, Intertek Italia SpA and press contributor

Presentation:

Elena Ruffino
EERCA SALES
& STRATEGY DIRECTOR SL&HL

Our webitorial deals with a key concern to textile/accessories mills, to creatives (designers, product managers, fabric research experts) and, at the end of the fashion process, to final consumers.
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Introduction:

Daniele Del Grande
Footwear Manager, Intertek Italia SpA and press contributor

The fashion world accepts the challenge of the need for increased sustainability. We openly question and debate new processes that show greater respect for the environment, the supply chain and the individual, not just economic growth.
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Ilaria Volontè

Designer and materials expert

What do designers/quality experts look for during the purchase of their materials for a sustainable collection? What criteria do they adopt?

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Born and raised in Milan, the symbolic city of prêt-à-porter, after the specialisation as a stylist, my career began in the early 90s in renowned Milanese style offices where I acquired specific skills in the construction of collections for the man-woman-child knitwear and knitwear and accessories. Subsequently, I consolidated a recognised stylistic know-how due to my ability and to the 360° predisposition and organization of the work cycle that allowed me to collaborate with numerous important companies including: MAX MARA GROUP, LUISA SPAGNOLI, ROMEO GIGLI, PRADA, INCOTEX GROUP. Over the years I acquired a great technical knowledge, from yarns to types of weaving, leather, dyeing and finishing.

Specialised in trends, materials and colours, I collaborate with sector magazines such as ZOOM on FASHION TRENDS and with trend notebooks such as THE MIX FASHION COLOURS TRENDS. Curious and constantly evolving, research has always been essential and at the basis of my work. Each intuition is the result of the history of each and everyone, of an emotion, a perception that floats in the air that I capture, process and adapt to the company, designing 'tailor-made' collections.

Federico Brugnoli

Sustainable leather expert
and CEO of Spin360

What do sustainable leather producers offer to meet the needs of the brands, the final customers and the environment in general? How do they communicate their sustainability?

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Founder and sole director of Spin360, Federico Brugnoli has worked as an entrepreneur in the field of sustainability and innovation after graduating with honours in Environmental Sciences from the State University of Milan in 1997.

In 2009, he founded Spin360, a company that has grown over time and specialises in developing new sustainable business models and innovative solutions from a technological and organisational viewpoint. He works with his teams to promote sustainable business models in Fashion, Luxury, Interior Design, Automotive and other important sectors. He always aims to develop an integrated approach toward 'innovative sustainability', encouraging collaboration between large corporations and smaller businesses. In other projects, he works alongside public authorities and the European Commission in developing innovative skills in response to fast-changing market needs.

Federico has developed specific technical skills in areas that include Applied Research, Biotechnologies, Life Cycle Assessment, Life Cycle Costing, Corporate Social Responsibility, Risk Management and Technology Transfer.

He is also the curator of two inspiring initiatives in the luxury industry: Lineapelle Innovation Square and MICAM X. He has recently been appointed Scientific Director of the Master in 'Fashion Sustainability and Industry Innovation' of the prestigious Accademia Costume & Moda, which launched in Milan in February 2022.

Christian Layolle

Leather consultant and connoisseur of sustainable startups

What is going on in the world of startups that can improve the sustainable progresses? What are the perspectives for the future?

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Christian Layolle was formerly the Head of UK for The Mills Fabrica, an innovation platform supporting startups driving a more sustainable future for the food and fashion industries. Founded in Hong Kong in 2018, The Mills Fabrica has opened its first international outpost in London's Kings Cross area, where its startup incubator programme, co-working space, experiential retail store, tech lab, events and more will host the UK's community of entrepreneurs working towards a circular economy.

Christian was formerly the Global Head of Business Development at The Business of Fashion (BoF), the leading resource for the global fashion industry. Having joined in 2013, Christian was one of the first team members at BoF who helped build the excellent global reputation it enjoys today. He spearheaded the development of BoF's two principal platforms: its recruitment site, BoF Careers, and its content subscriptions, BoF Professional, which today cater to over 400 fashion and luxury brands worldwide.

Christian was born in Bogotá, Colombia, educated in the United States and is a post-graduate from La Sorbonne, Paris in International Business and Marketing. After launching his career in France, he now lives in Islington with his fiancée and border terrier.

Mike Redshaw

Senior Technical Manager,
Intertek Europe

What tools does science provide for the choice of actual sustainable leathers? Where is the risk of greenwashing?

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Mike Redshaw leads the Intertek Global Softlines Technical team. He has over 25 years' quality assurance experience working in roles within the textile industry. He has worked for major retailers and technical service providers and has a wealth of knowledge gained in textile and apparel production facilities around the globe.

In his role with Intertek, he provides support to global clients on the development of their quality management programs. Mike is widely experienced and provides detailed guidance on the implementation of a diverse range of quality standard and global regulatory requirements which relate to Softline consumer products.

Mike has an educational background in Chemistry which includes a Master's degree from Manchester University. He is also a representative on various standardisation bodies working on the development of technical standards for the textile industry.

Fabiana Orlandi

LINEAPELLE AND UNIC'S SUSTAINABILITY
AND ENVIRONMENTAL DEPARTMENT EXPERT

Can you describe the results of the UNIC yearly sustainability report?

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Fabiana is an expert for the UNIC's Sustainability and Environmental Department.

Her commitment to sustainability dates back to 2013 when UNIC introduced it into its core practices, bringing together all social, environmental and ethical issues into its annual sector report.

Fabiana manages the UNIC sustainability report that provides an annual update of sustainability within the Italian tanning sector. As part of her responsibilities, she works with the sustainability team, organising and chairing workshops.

Trained as a Chemist in environmental, product safety and health regulations, she has gained a wealth of experience in training and accountability. She is passionate about Circular Economy and CSR.

Fabiana contributes to the Sustainability working group of Confindustria and is a member of the Italian standardisation body, the Technical Commission for Circular Economy of UNI.

Conclusion:
Daniele Del Grande

Footwear Manager, Intertek Italia SpA and press contributor

What do sustainable leather producers offer to meet the needs of the brands, the final customers and the environment in general? How do they communicate their sustainability?

Read PDF

Read PDF

Daniele is currently Footwear Manager of Intertek Italia SpA with the role of supervising the development of capability and activities of the physical-mechanical laboratory for footwear, leather goods, materials and accessories in Florence. He has gained important work experience in the areas of footwear design and production to then move on to collaborate with companies, schools and research centres, where he has held various positions in professional training and in research, development and innovation projects co-financed by regional, national and European bodies.

Passionate about writing, he was for years the technical director of the magazine 'Tecnica Calzaturiera' and currently collaborates with other important magazines in the sector.

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